Saterday fishing

I spend some alone time on a local stream this morning.I normally fish with my fishing buddy Roland, but I also quite enjoy spending some time on my own. It means i can fish the way I want to, whether it is fast or slow and dont have to feel guilty when I hog the best water.

Some great looking water

I started fishing at about 7:30am and in the first two hours the going was very slow.I started with a RAB, but soon changed to a CDC and Elk hair caddis with a dropper hanging below the dry. After about two hours of fishing I had only landed two fish and while having a sandwich I was scratching through my flybox and found mt go to pattern from last season. I have completely forgotten about them and this was a very sad looking and well used specimen. I never the less tied it on and kept the dropper below it.

A bit worse for wear, but this little fly saved the day.

On my first cast I landed a nice rainbow and soon after got another one in the same run. From there on I landed about another 20 fish on this little fly until I lost it when a mean little rainbow charged of downstream and broke my 6x tippet.

One rainbow made a spectacular leap on the take and then proceeded to charge straight at me. On the next jump it flew straight into my chest.

When I eventually lost the fly, I tied on a regular Elk hair Caddis again, but had no further luck. I though it might have been the dark colour of the fly that made it so successful, but I could not raise anything on any black flies either.

I also made a spectacular stumble and have a very bruised and swollen leg to show for it. I could not feel it while wading in the cold mountain water but it was a rather painful drive home.

All in all it was a very stunning morning fishing and to boost all the fish were landed on a dry fly.

Rod building 101 –Part 3

This is part 3 of the Rod building Tutorial by Michael Newby and Shaun Futter.

PART 1

PART 2

STEP NINE:

Mix up another batch of epoxy. Apply a layer of thick glue to the blank and between the bushes. Now slowly insert the blank into the reel seat, all the way to the back, as shown. Turn the blank as you are inserting it, to ensure the glue spreads evenly on the inside of the reel seat and the outside of the blank.


Then put more epoxy on the end of the reel seat (inside) and on the inside of the reel seat’s cap, and put the cap onto the reel seat end as shown. Clean up all excess epoxy with alcohol. You should end up with a butt section as shown on in the middle. Now MAKE SURE the blank’s info and model name (if it was silkscreened onto the blank) is in the correct position before leaving the epoxy to dry. If you hold the rod normally with the reel down, the name should be upright and readable. Normally it’s on the left of the blank. Turn the blank into the correct position, clean up any epoxy still left on the components, and secure the components in place with masking tape as shown. Leave it to dry overnight.

STEP TEN:



The hole through the cork grip will most certainly be smaller than the blank butt section, so it will need some reaming out to fit the blank. This step can be done with rat-tail files, beginning with the smallest one and working your way up to bigger files to enlarge the hole. This must be done very carefully and slowly, to ensure the hole stays centred and does not get made too big. An easier option is to use reamers (available from most rod-building supply shops). Essentially they are just blank sections with grit glued onto them. They are available in many sizes. These reamers make easy work of enlarging the hole diameter.



Start reaming with the smallest reamer, and work slowly. Keep turning the grip to ensure even reaming, and ensure the hole stays centered. Keep test-fitting the blank into the cork grip, as you do not want to remove too much cork. (NB: Blow out the grip every time before test-fitting, as any grit coming off the reamer and that is in the grip will scratch your blank).



Keep test-fitting the blank until the cork slides easily over the reel seat hood, but is not too loose. The grip should also not rock about on the blank, or squeak.

STEP ELEVEN:



Test fit the winding check (which is aluminium or PVC black rubber), and ream the winding check if need be, to fit snugly on the top of the grip.

STEP 12:



Mix up another batch of epoxy (don’t worry, this is the last time!). Spread a layer onto the blank (not the grip inside!). Spread the glue to about 1 inch past the point where your grip top will end up. Now slide the grip onto the blank, and keep turning it as you slide it down, to ensure the glue spreads evenly. Keep sliding it down and turning it until it slides over the reel seat hood, which must also have a very thin layer of epoxy on. Next, slide the winding check on and put a small layer of glue on the winding check, where it meets the cork. Clean up all excess glue with alcohol, and ensure the blank is completely free of glue as well. Make sure all parts are fitted correctly, and set the rod aside to dry overnight.

THE ASSEMBLED ROD BUTT SECTIONS

STEP 13:



PREPARE THE GUIDES FOR WRAPPING.

Most guides come prepared already, but almost all need a little finishing off. You need to shape them correctly and ensure there’s no sharp points on them. This will enable the thread to “climb” onto the guide easily and no fraid thread will result. Prepare the guides as shown with a small file.We have shown the guide feet, and the feet on the stripping guide.

STEP 14:


You will need a rod-wrapping stand, like the Flex Coat wrapper shown above. You can also make your own one, it’s really quite simple. Or, in a pinch, cut two V’s out of a cardboard box to rest your rod blank on while wrapping.

STEP 15:

Assemble the entire rod, and mark out the guide spacing. Al manufacturer's of blanks will give you the spacings required. Rod building supply companies will also be able to give you “general” spacing for your rod’s length, weight and sections if you cannot find them. Just ensure your spacing are marked out correctly, and double-check it. This is very important. You can mark your spacing with a china marker, but I find a thin piece of masking tape works best, and is easily removed…no need to clean the blank.

STEP 16:



Now for the hardest part of the build…the wraps. On the pic above you can see the “spacing” marking in the centre, and then we secure the guide with two thin strips of masking tape as well. NB: make sure the guides are aligned with the “spine” you have marked. The hook keeper gets wrapped in the very same way, just right against the winding check of course.

END PART 3

Next time we will start the actual wrapping of the guides.

A hour's Bass fishing

I went for a an hour to Blue Gum Grove today to try out my flies that I tied yesterday. In the hour that I was there I landed about 15 Bass with the biggest being about 1kg. A friend of mine’s wife caught a 3.5 kg fish there a while back so I know the big ones are there. The water at the dam is crystal clear and it was fun chucking a fly in front of a fish and teasing him to take it.

A sunny morning at the Bass dam.

All the fish were caught on the Mohair Streamer as this hungry little guy showed.